It’s Christmas Day
but only for the fact that Amanda, my roommate, has a red reindeer jumper on,
you wouldn’t know. Up early and off to Troy! Yes, it is a real place, although
much Greek mythological events occur here, I think. Troy was rebuilt 9 times-
the previous settlement was razed to the ground by earthquake or war- but the
one we know most about was the 6th Troy. It was only when they lost
their harbour because the river completely silted up that it was never rebuilt.
We could see the
different levels because of the way the walls were built and the type of
material used. A German guy in the late
19th century destroyed much of it by excavating wildly to find the
treasures of the Palace. I’m not sure if he succeeded or not! I climbed up the
replica Trojan horse with Nicki, but had trouble climbing down again. There was
a huge lineup of Japanese tourists waiting at the bottom by the time I reached
the bottom!
On, on, to
Pergamon and the Akropolis. Of course
the Akropolis was at the top of a mountain, which could only be reached by
walking up goat tracks, or taking the glass lift and then the cable car. I
opted for the latter option. I entered the cable car with trepidation, but
thought I’d video the ascent to take my mind off it. It worked- I remained
calm. My fellow passengers, Nicki and her dad, Dave: Ashika and her husband
Vikash: were great companions and kept me talking the whole way.
The ruins up here
were amazing and the views were spectacular. Every sound from the valley below
floated up, even a dogs bark! We walked around with our guide Faruk, until he
descended a long stairway. I thought we’d probably have to come up again so
decided to give it a miss, and walk around the other side of the mountain. A
few of the roup followed me, Merrin, Rae, Margot, Carmel, Kelly and John while
the rest went with Faruk down to the amphitheatre. Merrin is a Kiwi who lives and teaches in
Bristol, Rae is a beautiful Indian girl who lives in Singapore, Margot is
retired and lives in Bundaberg, Carmel, her daughter, teaches in London, and
Kelly and John are both NZ chemists who live and work in London. We didn’t
discover the ruins of the palace, but we did discover the most amazing views.
This was also once a harbour, which was now landlocked. It once had the second
biggest library in the world after Alexandria and was where parchment was first
used for books. In Alexandria, they used papyrus.
I managed to make
my way back to the meeting point at the top of the cable car, and found a very
comfy lounge chair to sit down and wait for the rest of the group. Two dogs
were playing at my feet so I videoed it for Keeley until my phone died. I spied
a very beautiful pashmina, which would suit Stacey, but was more money than I
had left in my wallet, so I bought a pomegranate juice instead, squeezed fresh
right in front of me, which she spilt over my pants and shoes! She apologized,
made me another but still charged me 4 lira. It was delicious though!
Back into the
cable car for the trip down. Genie, Pat and Ron were with me this time. I
explained my fear and told them about the Sentosa cable car crashing in
Singapore, but Genie didn’t want to hear. I think she’s just as scared as I am,
but doesn’t tell people. Ron explained about the strength of the cables- he was
an engineer in the mines in South Africa, and sounded like he knew what he was
talking about.
Then on to our
hotel for the next two nights, the Hotel
Tatlesis. I had bought a Christmas dress at one of our rest stops to wear
to the planned Christmas party tonight, but after a huge buffet dinner, most of
the group retired to their rooms. I piled my plate high with fried chicken,
rice, and what I thought were calamari rings, but were actually onion rings.
They were so delicious I went back for seconds. I had to order a beer to wash
it down! There was a huge dessert selection, of which I chose creamed rice,
chocolate mousse, rice pudding and I think some more halva. I didn’t want
another beer so ordered a Baileys since it was Christmas Day. It cost almost as
much as my Christmas dress! Ashika and
Vikash came late to dinner, so I sat chatting go the and sipping my Baileys
until the restaurant closed, when we retired to the bar area for more chat.
Ashika is also a teacher in South Africa. By the way, she has the most
beautiful feet. Vikash shyly admits he used to sit in the library at University
looking at her feet under the desk!
It was quite late
before we went to bed, but we have a late start tomorrow. We don’t have to be on
the bus until 8.30am. Woohoo! The day was fine, but rain was forecast. Firstly,
we visited the Zirve Carpet and Kilim shop. I had no interest in buying a
Turkish carpet, but after seeing the demonstration, all I want is a silk rug,
which costs $6800! (see photo, and it was a thousand times more beautiful than
the photo!) People were oohing and aahing over the woollen rugs, but most of
them left me cold. I did like the ones made from different coloured sheep’s
wool, and had not been dyed at all. They are all hand woven and take the women
and girls months or even years to make. I cannot think of anything worse than
being a rug-weaver- I’d rather work in one of those Roman brothels!
Off to Ephesus,
another of the ruined cities, but not as ruined as Troy or Pergamon. Just as we got out of the bus, it started to
rain. There was nowhere to take shelter, and the streets were marble blocks and
very slippery. I was extremely thankful to have my stick, or I would have become
a cropper several times. I only slipped twice and tripped once, which is pretty
good for me. The rain continued until we arrived at the Roman bath-house, where
the sun came out and shone brightly. Within a minute, I went from freezing cols
to boiling hot. I took off as many clothes as I could carry, and was still hot.
The marble was still wet and slippery though.
By the time I
reached the exit, I was in agony. I
don’t know if it was the slipping or the trying so hard not to slip, but all I
wanted was to get back to the hotel for strong painkillers, but no, we had to
go to lunch first at a local Gozleme place, for a huge pancake filled with
meat, vegetables and cheese and home-made ayran. Everyone else went inside to
sit on cushions on the floor, but I stayed outside on a straight-backed bench
in the hope of easing my back pain, Faruk and several kittens joined me! Then to
the bloody Virgin Mary’s house, where she supposedly lived, well not actually
lived, but it was supposedly the spot where some nun DREAMED she lived! What a
load of claptrap! Only four people got out of the bus, and I was not one of
them! They came back after twenty minutes drenched to the bone as the skies had
well and truly opened up during their visit. I was almost happy to be in pain
and not wet!
We finally made it
back to the hotel, where I was straight to my room for a “bex and a lie down”.
I thought I’d drop off to sleep but was pleased I didn’t, as Claire came back
after a walk to the beach, and invited me to Dave and Nicky’s room for a
Jameson’s. The trammel had done its job and I was human enough to accept. The
whisky did me the world of good on top of the trammel, but I must have appeared
drunk as I couldn’t talk properly.
I was hoping for
the delicious dinner like last night’s, but there were no onion rings or fried
chicken so I had to be happy with the rice. I made up for it with desserts!
Once again, the party didn’t eventuate, so Amanda, Joanna, Nicki and Dave
joined Ashika and me in the lounge bar for a chat. I had a pepsi light with
dinner, so didn’t order a drink. I headed off to bed leaving the rest of them
chatting.
Tomorrow we are
off to Pamukkale, one of Europe’s top 20 hot spots. I am really looking forward
to it. From all accounts, it’s simply amazing.
Another 8.30am
start, so I’m fully recovered, and first on the bus! But before we start the
trip, we have to go to the leather shop! I wanted to stay on the bus, but was
pleased I didn’t. They put on a whole leather jacket fashion show- you’ve never
seen leather jackets like these! The softest, lightest, most colourful leather
jackets of every style imaginable- even double sided, so you get two jackets in
one. The one that took my fancy was a red and black reversible loose-fitting
coat with tassels on the bottom edge. I tried it on and swanned around the
shop. The longer I kept it on, the cheaper it became. It was $1500 to begin
with, and was only $1300 when I left the store. I struggled to resist
temptation- it was only the thought of how many weeks I’d have to work to pay
it off that stopped me. Also the whole tour group thinks I’m poor, which I am
in comparison! Even Margot who’s retired
bought two carpets! Lots of the other girls went to the bag shop at the back
and bought Chanel and Louis Vuitton handbags.
At last we arrive
at Pamukkale just in time for lunch. Everyone headed into the town, while I
headed up the pure white mountainside. I had to take my shoes off as soon as I
reached the calcium carbonate deposits, as they were being dirtied by tourists
with muddy shoes. Walking in the warm water was lovely, but most of the
mountain was dry white rock or white mud, so by the time I was a hundred metres
along, my feet were cold. After another hundred metres, they were even colder!
I was stopping very briefly to take a photo of not only the white rock and the
travertine terrace pools, but also the views! By the time I reached the top, my
feet were numb with cold and I was breathing heavily from the exertion. This was
the definitely the closest I had ever come to mountain climbing. I felt
a sense of achievement especially since none of the rest of the group had
attempted it. I put my sandals back on and headed for the Antique Pool, paid my
32 lira to swim and went to get changed. Even with just my togs on, I wasn’t
cold as I was still hot from the walk up. I deposited my gear in a locker for
10 lira, and was given a wristband with an actual key attached- none of this
magnetic wristband nonsense here!
Ah, the pool!
Swimming in the warm water amongst the Roman ruins was something very special.
The bottom was covered with pebbles, but I only touched it when I walked in.
The pool deepened to more than 3 metres, and I found a marble column submerged
to just the right height for me to sit on, but still keep all of my body
submerged except for my head, of course. I relaxed here for the afternoon
allowing the curative properties of the water to work their magic. Faruk
appeared at 3, and told me I had to be back at the bus by 4. I swam to the
deepest (and hottest) pool again, and made my way across the ruins to the exit,
only stopping to let the waterfall pound down on my shoulders and back. I clambered out, grabbed my sandals and
sarong and ran to the lockers. I was shivering so much I had trouble putting
the key in. I could not get dressed fast enough!
I wandered back to
the bus through the ruins of Hieropolis stopping to buy a magnet for 2 lira,
and once again was first back to the bus. After a half hour rest at our quaint
hotel called the Pamaksu, we were out to see the Swirling Dervishes. They
didn’t swirl very fast, but their swirling put me to sleep. Worse still, I was
front row! Well, if they really were in a trance, they wouldn’t have noticed.
The hour show finished after half an hour, and we were all left shaking our
heads and wondering when the photo opportunity would occur. It didn’t. Back to
the hotel for a another buffet dinner, and so to sleep.
Off to Capadoccia
in the morning, stopping at the birthplace of the first whirling dervish,
Mevlana. There was a whole museum here about the dervishes but it was packed
with tourists! On, on, on to Capadoccia arriving at 7.30pm. We checked in, and
checked our room out. Yay! It was big enough for the three of us! Another
buffet dinner. They had Capadoccian wine on the menu so thought I’d try a glass
for 10 lira. I haven’t had wine since Troyes! It was average at best, and I
wound up with a splitting headache by 11pm. I drank some water thinking it was
a dehydration, hangover headache, but wondered how I could get such a bad
hangover from one small glass of red wine! I managed to fall asleep, but woke
up at 2am wondering if I was going to survive the night. I had drunk all my
water so went down to reception in my pyjamas to get some more- you can’t drink
tap water here- but no amount of water or panadol would relieve my head. I
eventually showered and headed down for a coffee and breakfast.
I only ate some
cereal, some egg and some yoghurt, not my usual pig out! My head finally
cleared but the pain moved to my stomach. I didn’t want to miss my day in
Capadoccia so rushed about getting ready. I was afraid I’d be last on the bus,
but in fact, I was first. We headed to
one of the underground cities, but I could only manage the first level. I
really thought I was going to be sick. The landscape here is amazing and even
though I spent most of the day either on the bus or in the toilet, I still
enjoyed it. I didn’t go into the onyx jewellery shop, but stayed outside
overlooking Pigeon Valley. It wasn’t nearly as cold as was expected. I didn’t
visit the churches called the open-air museum, but I did go to the underground
pottery museum and pottery demonstration. Joanna made a pot, and to everyone’s
surprise, she is a really good potter!
Back to the
Tassaray Hotel for one last dinner. I hadn’t eaten all day and decided to try
to eat something. A small piece of chicken breast, rice and a few chips were
all I could manage before rushing back to my room. I did bring a rice pudding
with me, which I might try to eat before I go to sleep, as I am starting to
feel a little better. Amanda and Claire have gone out to a traditional Turkish
folklore evening (all you can eat and drink), but in the circumstances thought
I’d better give it a miss. We’re off at the crack of dawn tomorrow- again- I
think they try to fit too much into a day. We were only 6 nights on the road
and 4 nights in Istanbul. I would have much rather had 2 more nights on the
road, and travelled at a more leisurely pace.
The tour ends
tomorrow. Although I’ve enjoyed Turkey, I don’t think I’ll ever do another tour
on my own. I’m really looking forward to touring Portugal with Stacey as my
tour guide!
All I ever wanted to see was Swirling Dervishes as a kid. You so lucky so see them in real time. I can almost imagine the music, its sort of like swirling music. Round and round and round. If you get tossed out of rug weaving, you could be a dervish.
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