Relaxing in Calolziocorte

 At last, a day of relaxation! We slept in, went downstairs to the café for breakfast, then asked for the bikes. This was the main reason I booked here; so we could ride leisurely along the shores of the lake. Problemo: only one bike! So we rugged up and started walking. Realising we weren’t going to get far, Keeley ran back to get the bike and we shared it- one at a time! On the way back, we sussed out a trash and treasure market- I have to say it was mostly trash- second or more likely fifth-hand stuff being sold by gypsies in vans and motorhomes, all looking very scruffy and dirty. It was spitting rain and the market place was muddy and puddly, not ideal for someone in socks and sandals.

After our walk/ride, we headed to the restaurant across the street for a bite to eat. I ordered vegetarian pizza while Keeley had her favourite gnocci washed down with a litre of red. For an Italian restaurant, the food was only just passable, with possibly the worst house red we’ve had the whole trip. However, it was packed with local diners so it must be to their taste! Their favourite dish seemed to be mussels. 

After lunch, it was siesta time. I had no sooner fallen asleep than I was awoken by the maid, who wanted to clean our room. No, no- we only want fresh towels! Try saying that in Italian! She blew us a kiss as she left. I suppose she will still get paid for cleaning the room even though she didn’t have to.

I went online to plan our trip tomorrow. We were to drive to San Remo. When Keeley saw the route back to Paris, she asked why we were driving the long way about 16 hours with 3 stops. I wanted to see Valloria, the village with the painted doors, which I missed last trip, but it didn’t seem fair to inflict all those extra driving hours on her so I looked at staying in Switzerland, maybe Vevey, Montreux, Lausanne or Gruyeres. After checking out accommodation and prices, I decided to head over the border to a little place called Chevillard in France where I managed to book the last room in a little B&B with breakfast included for $166 for 2 nights, less than half the price of Switzerland. That will give Keeley a day of rest before tackling the rest of the trip to Paris.

We have been really disappointed in our accommodation in Calolziocorte and will not be giving it a good review.

The website promised free onsite parking- the carpark was being asphalted and we had to park in a muddy paddock a hundred metres away. The website promised free bikes. There was only one! The website said breakfast to your room. Not so, we had to go downstairs to the café where all the villagers were drinking coffee and smoking. There was no milk for the cereals provided for breakfast, nor was their any milk in the room for the tea and coffee making facilities. Even though we are the only guests, we were not given a lake view room, and worst of all, website said, ”We speak all languages.” which is patently untrue. They speak Italian, and do not understand English, my terrible French or even Keeley’s sign language! The issue of the sheets for towels is insignificant in comparison to all of these other failings.

On the positive side, how many people do you know who have stayed in a monastery? We were serenaded to sleep by the choir singing Christmas carols well into the night.

We spoiled ourselves for dinner. We didn’t really have much choice. It was either go back to Lavello Ristorante or try out Osteria Marascia. It was delightful. The owner spoke English and chatted with us helping us choose our meals. The menu was in English. We drank a bottle of Prosecco as well- first night we haven’t had house red wine! After a delicious meal, we even had dessert- Keeley Japanese persimmon (kaki) and affogato for me. Our host invited us to put a pin on his map indicating where we lived. Another couple from Brisbane had visited, and only 6 other people from all of Australia in the last year. We felt special. I felt bad not leaving him a tip.

Off to Chevillard tomorrow!