After a wonderful
night’s sleep in our beautiful, rooftop apartment, we awoke to a delicious
breakfast buffet. After minimal breakfasts for the past two weeks, we didn’t
know where to start! An array of breakfast cereals, juices, pastries, fruits,
yoghurt, breads, jams, meats, vegetables and cheeses were on display. (See
photos) A basket with half a dozen fresh bread rolls was on our table along
with a pot of tea and a jug of warm milk. (We didn’t dare ask for coffee after
last night’s!) All this for the two of us!
I felt Barbara,
our host, had gone to a lot of trouble to prepare all this so we’d better make
a good effort into eating it all! We ate the cucumber, tomato and some of the
capsicum. I made a spiced-meat, prosciutto and cheese sandwich while Keeley
stuck to the cheeses. (There were 9 or 10 varieties to choose from!)
We helped
ourselves to juices- cranberry for me- as well fresh fruit salad and yoghurt.
Thinking we had eaten enough to last us all day, we drove down to the Aqua Dome
a short distance away. We really could have walked, but were too lazy.
We eventually
found the entrance, (I think we had found the tradesmen’s entrance, as we had
parked in the staff carpark) and were given magnetic watches. We had to use
these for everything and pay when we were finished. It was a pay per hour system, but was capped
at 3 hours. We relaxed for over 5 hours!
There were many pools to choose from, indoor and out. I grabbed two robes, and
climbed up the spiral stairs to the highest one, and soaked for half an hour.
Keeley took some
great videos and photos, while I just let the water soak into my weary body. I
don’t know why I’m weary. Keeley has done all the driving and had carried all
the luggage up to our rooms the whole trip!
In between soaks
in different pools, we read and used the free wifi. (pronounced weefee here)
Eventually, we headed back to our
b&b, showered and headed down to our favourite Pasteria Piazza. I had
planned to order pasta tonight and dessert. We were salivating as we walked
down our little street, following a guy in a mask who was banging drums and
bells as he went. We didn’t get too close as we thought he might be a little
crazy. As it turns out, he was dressed up as Perchtenlauf, a devil-like
character who is supposed to frighten away winter. Let me tell you, he’s not
doing a very good job!
We arrived at the
Pasteria to find it closed, as was the restaurant across the road, but we found
an Austrian restaurant around the corner. We entered into a warm room enclosed
by timber walls like a sauna, and were ushered to a table by the owner. We both
ordered tomato soup with camembert dumplings, and I ordered the local Tyrolean
specialty which was very fatty and mostly potatoes, but it did have a fried egg
on top. Keeley did much better with a home-made spinach ravioli. Fortunately,
we couldn’t fit in dessert as they were very expensive.
As soon as we
arrived back at Gastehaus Martha, we hit the sack as we have to be up early
tomorrow for a six-hour drive to Sebersdorf. Breakfast again was a sight to
behold; today had the addition of scrambled eggs! In addition, I tried some of
the fresh mixed berries and yoghurt. On the road again!
An almost
uneventful journey ensued. Keeley was quite ill but was determined she could
drive all the way. I really don’t think she wants me to drive. We had one near
miss where a truck merged into our lane where there were roadworks. Keeley
honked him twice and he stopped and we continued on, but it left her jittery.
She has her hand poised over the horn ever since our first day!
We stopped for
lunch on the road at Mondsee, really disappointed we didn’t go into Mondsee to
a nice café instead of the roadstop. We know they have delicious chocolate
desserts here from our Sound of Music tour three years ago.
After another few
hours driving, following the directions on the GPS, unbelievably we reached
Sebersdorf. We were sure we were going round in circles! We pulled up at an
information board to locate Gastehof Schneider, which we thought we did, but it
turned out to be Gasthaus Scheider. I hopped out to ask a local for directions
and on my way back to the car, got caught in what I’m assuming was a sleet
storm. The temperature dropped to freezing and I was sprinkled with tiny pieces
of ice.
After finally
getting accurate directions from a lovely receptionist at a posh hotel, we
found our b&b. It was in a tiny village called Auffen about 10km out from
Sebersdorf! We drove through forests and fields and other tiny villages before
finally reaching our destination. Everything at the front was closed and in
darkness, so I walked round the back and spied an old man in the kitchen. I
walked up and knocked on the door. He opened it, and spoke to me in German. I’m
assuming it was something like “what do you want?” I had the booing.com in my
hand and he looked at it uncomprehendingly. Just then three young girls came
over to me and in their best English asked me if I was a guest. Yes! Hooray!
They told me to go round to the front door, offered to take our luggage, and
took me up to show me the room while Keeley made an emergency dash to the
ladies in the darkened bar area. We didn’t think it would take more than an
hour to find our accommodation!
We were ushered
into the bar and offered a drink by the eldest daughter, Anna. I didn’t know
what they had so I said, “beer, please” and she expertly poured two beers
before our eyes. You wouldn’t get that in Australia! Just as we were finishing
our beers, a man came in and introduced himself as Hanspeter, all one word. He
was the father of two of the girls, and the son of the old man I had met in the
kitchen, as it turns out.
I had read on the
booking.com sheet that half-board was 6 euro extra, and assumed this might be
dinner, as there was nowhere to eat within cooee of this place, so I
tentatively asked if we could have dinner here after we had showered. Yes, no
problems, and what would you like? I answered my daughter doesn’t eat meat, and
I eat anything!
We went upstairs
to our spacious room, showered and changed and went downstairs to the bar
again, had another beer and tried to get wifi. At last Anna managed to get us
on, but we had no time to do anything before dinner was served: a first course
of salad, lettuce was the only thing I recognized, covered with tasty black
oil, which Hanspeter said was a local ingredient, followed by my main of the
biggest chicken schnitzel ever. I was full after I had eaten the breast, but I
thought it would be rude to leave the rest, so forced myself to eat the rest of
the half chicken, and it wasn’t a small chicken. Probably came from his farm,
as it was very tender and tasty. Keeley was served homemade vegetable patties, which
were also delicious.
After dinner, we
retired to our room only to discover we lost wifi at the top of the stairs. Also,
Hanspeter had told us there would be no hot water tonight- I had already
discovered this, but thought it was just my not being able to work out how to
choose the temperature correctly. What there would also be none of was heat!
OMG, it’s 2C and no heat! We donned our winter PJs, found two pairs of thermal
bed-socks to keep our feet warm, (Thanks, Ross!) clambered into bed, and pulled
our doonas up to our ears, and very soon fell asleep.
We woke up in the
early hours of the morning, and thought wow, we must have really warmed up from
our body heat, but no, the heat was now fixed, and we had the radiator on
maximum! Talk about from one extreme to the other! After opening the window to
let in a little cool ( freezing cold) air , we both fell back asleep until it
was time to wake up for breakfast. Keeley wanted to stay in her pyjamas, as she
was still feeling really crook, and I decided she’d better start on my
antibiotics as she wasn’t getting any better on her own.
Breakfast was the
freshest bread rolls, meat, cheese, jam and a boiled egg served in the dining
room beside the bar. Keeley was determined she was going to go to Rogner Bad
Blumau whether she was sick or not, so we headed off. We just drove for a while
through forests heading nowhere in particular to heat up the car, before we
stopped and put Bad Blumau in the GPS. We drove straight past the hotel and spa
and didn’t see it. Don’t ask me how we missed it as it’s a combination of
Tolkien and Gaudi, in the middle of a bleak landscape.
After driving right
through the village and round again, we drove through fancy gates, one of which
was open, parked in a small car park, and headed to the big sign saying” Rogner
Bad Blumau”. We found reception, only to
be told it was hotel only reception and were given directions to spa reception,
which were absolutely hopeless. We started walking around trying to find
something that said “Spa Reception”. It was a fruitless search. Keeley had to
return to the car at this time because she had lost feeling in her big toes,
and wasn’t really warmly dressed either. It was 2C. I wasn’t cold as I had
layers on, shoes but no socks, scarf, gloves and hat. They’re the secret to
keeping warm.
In the distance, I
saw a building with a big sign saying ”VULKANIA”. I thought it sounded warm and
they might know where Spa Reception was so ventured forth on my own. Oh happy
days! It WAS Spa Reception. I couldn’t believe it was in such an out-of-the-way
location! I paid our entry fees: everything was included here for 42 euro for
the whole day until 11 pm, and was given two “watches” and a map. I emptied my
bag to find my phone to text Keeley that VULKANIA was reception, but no phone!
No option but to walk all the way back to the car and collect Keeley. She was
huddled up in the front seat with two scarves wrapped round her feet- they were
like ice! She thought she had frostbite and her big toes were going to fall
off. I assured her you had to be out in the cold for longer than one hour for
that to happen. I massaged her toes to
bring some warmth back into them, found a pair of my dirty possum socks in the
boot, and put them on her feet. I made her put on my snow jacket for the long
walk back to Vulkania.
I was still hot
from all the walking I’d done, so was pleased to get out of all my layers and
into my togs, and head straight to one of the outdoor pools, then to another
slightly hotter one, and lastly to float over to the hottest one of all under
the “volcano” 38.7C- heaven! Keeley had recovered from her “frostbite” and was
starting to enjoy herself. We soaked for 40 minutes before drying off and
heading up to the main hotel spa area.
It was
unbelievably decadent- mattresses spread out on the floor as well as chaise
longues around the pools. Many of the mattresses had canopies over them and
around two sides for courting couples, but we chose a double, undecorated one
with two pillows. It was so comfortable I wanted to stay the night here. I’d
love to know what those mattresses are made of, something waterproof, soft, and
warm, but supportive too. And we had a good wifi signal! What more could we
want? I had quite a few scrabble games to start since it’s the beginning of the
month, and I haven’t had good wifi, so got them all done first, then chatted to
a few friends until my phone died. Then just read my book and went to sleep.
Keeley woke me up
to tell me she couldn’t find the sauna- she really wanted it to help her get
better- so I set off to find it. Not easy, I’ll grant you. This place id like a
rabbit warren- you just have to keep going even though you think you’ve made a
wrong turn. I managed to find my way back to our mattress ( no, I didn’t leave
crumbs) and escorted Keeley to the sauna while I headed to the bar for a beer.
I hadn’t even sat down with my beer when Keeley came rushing in, saying, “I’m
not going in there, you have to be naked!” Admittedly, the sauna was filled
with naked bodies, but she had been “told” by a woman in there, that nudity was
required! So she sat down with me and
had a beer instead!
As we were both feeling
a little peckish, we thought we’d grab a bite to eat. The eating place turned
out to be a fancy restaurant, but the aromas emanating from there were so
delightful, we were enticed in. We ordered elderflower water to start, then
chose Chicken roulade (me) and pesto noodles (Keeley)- just what the doctor
ordered! Then back to the pools! No waiting for our lunch to digest! I discovered a lovely bubbly area that was
great for my back, while Keeley swam around taking photos.
Another swim in
Vulkania before heading home. It was hotter than this morning, which was just
about perfect. They had log fires let in braziers around the pools, which were
blazing brightly as darkness descended. The aroma of the burning timber made
the spa experience even more enjoyable. We both built rock towers (actually
pebbles) on the edge of the pool, which is obviously the thing to do as there
were many other rock towers made along the edge of the pools. Ours both reached
6 rocks high!
Keeley didn’t want
to get out, but I was afraid of driving in the dark, even though Keeley was
driving. And with good reason as it turned out. It was raining with patches of
fog and a very narrow road; we could only see about 10 metres in front of us,
then when a car approached we were completely blinded and had to move over to
the side of the road as far as we dared without going off into the ditch. Talk
about scary! Even Keeley was frazzled! We’ve never been so happy when we came
into our tiny village and saw the church. Our b&b is right beside it! I walked directly into the bar and asked for
a beer. Small or large? I asked for large, but when I saw the size of the glass
changed my mind!
I intended to
shower and wash my hair before dinner, but wound up staying in the bar, and
having another beer with dinner which tonight consisted of the most scrumptious
pumpkin soup, followed by a similar salad to last night’s, and then roast meat
and mashed potato gems for me, and strudel for Keeley- she thinks it might have
been sauerkraut.
We were showered,
hair washed, and in bed by 8pm! We played 6 games of Ticket to Ride, of which I
won not a single one. Either Keeley is very good, or I am hopeless. She’s been
playing against the computer when I’m asleep so I like to think she’s very
good!
Keeley is burning
up in the night so I’ve put a cold hand towel on her forehead to cool her down.
I might just have to drive today- yikes! It’s only just over 2 hours to Lake
Heviz, our next destination.
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